Lucio Usobiaga has childhood memories of going to Xochimilco, a network of ancient, man-made canals and floating islands in southern Mexico City. Today, the area is still known for its crowds of tourists and brightly painted party boats, but Mr. Usobiaga’s associations with Xochimilco have changed. “Farming organically is the best way to preserve the chinampas,” Usobiaga says of the islands created in the Valley of Mexico that were incorporated into a larger network of waterways by the Aztecs and later the Spanish.
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